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Italian Series #2: Piedmont - Cortese, Arneis, Nebbiolo, Barbera & the Great Wines of the North

  • Lamont's Wine Store Cottesloe 12 Station Street Cottesloe, WA, 6011 Australia (map)

Piedmont

Arneis, Timorasso, Barbera, Nebbiolo & the Great Wines of the North

Piedmont sits at the foot of the Alps in Italy's north west, a land of fog-wrapped hills and one of the most revered wine cultures on earth. It gives us the perfumed, ageless Nebbiolo of Barolo and Barbaresco, the bright energy of Barbera, and a quietly brilliant cast of whites led by Arneis and Timorasso.

10 of Piedmont’s Finest Producers:
Bera | Bruno Giacosa | Cascina Galarin | Domenico Clerico | G.D. Vajra | Gaja | La Spinetta | Linea Retta | Poderi Luigi Einaudi | Rocche Costamagna


Monday, July 20th

Session 2: Piedmont
Hosted By Yasmeen Jansen MW
Extended Masterclass: 6:30-8:30pm | 13 Wines & substantial canapés followed by a main course | $265
(Only 14 seats available - private dining room event)


The Burgundy of Italy?

“Piedmont is sometimes described as Italy’s answer to Burgundy, but producers’ masterful work with Nebbiolo in the Langhe hills deserves its own plinth.”
- Chris Mercer, Decanter (2025)

Decanter on Piedmont continued…

The Piedmont wine region is situated in north-eastern Italy. The alps form a prominent backdrop here, bordering the region to the north and west. It’s a hilly region that’s renowned for its fog (or ‘nebbia’, from which the grape variety took its name).

Piedmont’s vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco have been the subject of intense analysis, and in 2010 the Consorzio approved the MGAs laid out by cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti, in consultation with many of the winemakers.

This pioneering work for the region delineates the best sites in much the same way as the Burgundian cru system.

The most famous grape variety of the region is the thick-skinned Nebbiolo, however other red varieties include Barbera and Dolcetto.

Muscat is used for Moscato d’Asti, Cortese for Gavi, and Arneis for the whites of Roero and beyond.

Creative tension between tradition and modernity has at times boiled over in Piedmont, as witnessed by the so-called ‘Barolo wars’.

Bartolo Mascarello’s famous ‘No barrique, No Berlusconi’ 1998-vintage label epitomised one traditionalist view, alongside a separate political stance.

‘Tensions have eased in recent years as prosperity and compromise have prevailed,’ wrote Tiziano Gaia for Decanter in 2019.

Piedmont’s climatic diversity and the rise of single-vineyard ‘cru’ wines, alongside prized multi-commune blends, have helped to foster comparisons with Burgundy – even though Nebbiolo differs stylistically to Pinot Noir.

While Barolo and Barbaresco sit atop Italy’s wine classification pyramid, with DOCG status, many top sites are further showcased via ‘MGAs’ – Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva.

There is no premier or grand cru hierarchy, but magic certainly happens when top producers and sites combine.


Meet the host…

Master of Wine: Yasmeen Jansen,

Yasmeen Jansen MW is a specialist medical practitioner, and the development of her expertise in wine began with her involvement in tasting groups with colleagues. Her love affair with wine was cemented when she lived in Italy for two years, during which time she developed an affinity for, and in-depth knowledge of, Italian wines. Yasmeen's passion is for wine education and appreciation, and this has inspired her MW journey. Tastings led by Yasmeen are fun and informative and involve a deeper exploration of the varieties and regions covered.

The Master of Wine qualification indicates that the title recipient has completed the toughest series of examinations on viticulture, wine making styles and techniques, all wine regions, and all pluses and minuses in the marketing of these wines on planet. Then added to this is the requirement for an extraordinary ability to discern the bouquet & flavour nuances caused by the factors above which indicate the wine’s variety, age, wine making techniques used, regions, quality, hygiene and seasonal variations.  The title MW is the greatest imprimatur or recognition that the wine world can give to its most able students. After 50 years of Master of Wine graduates there are just 2 in Western Australia and perhaps 24 in Australia.


The Wine List

First Bracket

2023 Cascina Galarin Barivel Langhe Arneis.
“This Langhe Arneis opens with aromas of white peach, jasmine and apple blossom that waft from the glass. Crisp flavors of green apple and pear take center stage on the palate, accompanied by a crunchy, salty minerality that adds to the mouth-watering finish."
90 points, Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast
2022 Linea Retta Colli Tortonesi DOC Timorasso Derthona
“Straw yellow. Acacia honey, orange blossom and hints of petroleum on the nose are in harmony with floral and mineral notes on the palate. The elegance and complexity of the typical salinity defines a long and clean finish.
Winery, Linea Retta
2023 Gaja Rossj-Bass Langhe
"Well-defined fruity notes (grapefruit, papaya, pear) with flower and spicy hints. Balanced body and defined structure in the mouth supported by great freshness and acidity. Excellent bottle ageing potential."
Winery, Gaja

Second Bracket

2023 Cascina Galarin 'Le Querce' Barbera d'Asti
"Dark red colour. Fresh, intense fruit bouquet of cassis, strawberry and blueberry. A dry, medium bodied red wine with refreshing acidity and soft tannins, well balanced with good complexity. (Barbera 95% / Freisa 5%)"
Winery, Cascina Galarin
2023 Rocche Costamagna Barbera d'Alba
"Deep ruby red color with purple highlights. The aroma is very fruity and characterized by plum and marasca cherry scents. On the palate the fruit taste wide up and intensify, maintaining the freshness of this wine. The aftertaste consists of a soft and delicate almond sensation."
Winery, Rocche Costamagna
2015 G.D Vajra Barbera D'Alba Superiore
"The 2015 Barbera d'Alba Superiore is all class. Nuanced, finessed and impeccably balanced, the 2015 expresses the intensity of the year while retaining a gorgeous sense of restraint, all in a medium-bodied style that is immensely appealing. Ripe red cherry, plum, rose petal, mint and wild flowers are some of the many aromas and flavors that develop, but it is the wine's textural elegance that is most alluring today."
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Third Bracket

2021 Bruno Giacosa Falletto Dolcetto
"Falletto signifies Giacosa estate fruit, and this Dolcetto comes from their vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba and Lirano di Sinio. Wild blackberry, black cherry, and dried dark florals are interwoven with brooding dark earth and vegetative notes and wrapped with long, grippy tannins to a steely, cool finish — a much darker, more structured and savoury Dolcetto."
Treve Ring, Gismondi on Wine
2022 Bera Langhe Nebbiolo ‘Mio Vino’
"Semi-translucent garnet in colour, throwing pretty perfumes of raspberry, young cherries and roses in bloom. Matured in oak barrels for 12 months, there's an undertone of richness; earth, tanned leather, herbs and spice. Complexity offered to what is otherwise a jubey, lightly acidic red liquorice confection. (Nebbiolo, 14%, organic)"
Importer, Sometimes Always
2022 Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe
"Deep garnet with vibrant violet hues. The nose opens with layered notes of underbrush, violet, sweet licorice, and blackberry, which echo on the palate. The entry is sweet and enveloping, supported by medium structure and a rich core of red fruits, especially redcurrant, with a pleasant natural sweetness. Polished, well-integrated tannins contribute to a harmonious, approachable, and thoroughly enjoyable finish. (Nebbiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)"
Winery, Gaja

Fourth Bracket

2017 Domenico Clerico Ciabot Mentin Barolo
"Bright ruby with a garnet rim in the glass, the nose is remarkably classic, with plenty of leafy lightness typical of Barolo. Restrained and filigreed, it hides rich red and dark cherry, rosebud and violet aromas, with liquorice root in depth. The dense and vibrant palate is full of sucrosity, with cherry and tar alongside a violet tinge. The tannins are as much extracted as lavish, noble and ripe, while acid carries the finish of cherry kernel. Astonishing, ageworthy wine. Don't touch it before 2022."
96 points, Aldo Fiordelli, Decanter
2017 Rocche Costamagna Barolo Roche dell'Annunziata Riserva Bricco Francesco
"This is red-fruited and floral with hints of walnuts and cocoa in the background. Medium- to full-bodied with ripe and firm tannins framing the fruit core and leading to a lingering, velvety finish. Try after 2026."
94 points, Andrii Stetsiuk, JamesSuckling.com
2015 La Spinetta Barolo Campe
"Very distinctive nose with violets and very pure blackcurrants and blueberries, as well as leafy nuances, all of which deliver a fresh impression. The palate has impressive depth and density and the cool, blue fruit at the center sits fresh and vibrant. Smoothly resolved tannins shape a distinguished, balanced and long palate."
97 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
2008 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo
"The 2008 Barolo Nei Cannubi is striking. Freshly cut flowers, mint, spices and sweet red cherries are woven together in a rich, luxurious tapestry of undeniable class. The balance of richness and finesse is fabulous. Silky, polished tannins are barely perceptible, such is the elegance of the fruit. In 2008 the Cannubi is sumptuous, elegant, and flat-out beautiful."
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous


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